BREGANÇON,
the postcard-perfect presidential lookout
The sailors of the Var coast know it by heart. Perched on a rocky islet in the commune of Bormes-les-Mimosas, visible from the bay of Hyères as well as from the beautiful, crystal-clear beach of Cabasson, it is what is known as a bitter. A fixed point, a geographical landmark but also a symbolic landmark. The Brégançon fort, a silhouette of stone and umbrella pines, is one of those places whose name we know without always knowing its history. Yet this jewel set between the sea and the scrubland has seen a lot of people come and go... and not just Republican Guards.
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From royal bastion to Napoleonic observation postIts strategic position has long been a source of envy: in ancient times, the site was used as an observation post by the Greeks and Romans. But it was during the Middle Ages that the site really took on military importance. Transformed into a fortified bastion by François 1st in the 16th century, it became an essential defensive link in the chain of defence that kept watch over the Var coast, which was often threatened by barbarian incursions. Over the centuries, Brégançon has changed with the times. Remodelled under Napoleon, who installed a garrison there, and then modernised under the Second Empire, it retained its defensive role until the early 20th century. Cannons were kept there in anticipation of enemies who would never come, and then it was gradually abandoned by the army.
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Presidents on the moveIt was Charles de Gaulle who finally came up with the idea of turning it into a presidential residence in 1968. He was looking for a place that was discreet, secure and... sunny. He succeeded: since then, heads of state have followed one another there in swimming costumes or immaculate shirts, between sea bathing and discreet meetings. Over the years, we've come across Pompidou in his Citroën DS, Giscard playing tennis, Mitterrand rereading Malraux in the gardens, and Chirac in a Lacoste polo shirt. The place became a symbol: a blend of republican power and French-style idleness. A little postcard, a little château of the Fifth Republic. Even tourists in boats slow down as he passes, hoping to catch a glimpse of a president in flip-flops. More recently, Emmanuel Macron has received foreign heads of state here, establishing Brégançon as a summer diplomatic venue, with a host of official photos against a Mediterranean backdrop. |
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Even today, the fort retains its mystery. Accessible to the public for some years now - except when the President is staying there - it remains a timeless place. History, both great and small, floats in the salty air. Between military paths and garden armchairs, Brégançon continues to tell the story, to anyone who will listen, of the astonishing metamorphosis of an old sentinel into the most envied summer residence in France.
To visit the Fort de Brégançon, contact the Bormes-les-mimosas Tourist Office.
